DAY 3

Progression of Waves:

• At the crest of the wave, the water is moving in the same direction of the wave  motion. 
• At the trough of the wave, the motion of the water moves in the opposite direction of the wave.
• Waves move in small orbits measuring 1/9 the wavelength of the total wave.
• As the water gets deeper, the orbits flatten out and become just a forward and backward surge.

• In the first picture above: A trochoidal curve is traced out from point A as the outer circle rolls along the underside of line B
• In the second picture above: A sine curve is traced out by point A as the moving circle rotates with constant angular velocity about B.

DAY 2

Equation for Velocity/Speed of a Wave:

When looking at the ocean waves, when we're in the deep water, the hypertangent in the expression approaches 1, so the first term in the square root determines the deep water speed.

The Limits on tanh functions:

Limiting cases for the velocity expression:

The Physics Behind Ocean Waves:

• The ocean waves has lots of different factors that contributes to it, the biggest is the the moon's gracity. But wind, water, and land do most of the work when it comes to waves.
• The waves moves up and down like a transverse wave, but its actually an orbital progressive waves.



DAY 1

We looked up the physics of ocean waves and found out the formula.  The factors determining the velocity of the wave are wavelength, depth, and gravity.